APRIL

'Spring is Finally Here!' What a beautiful time of year with the rhododendrons, magnolias, camellias, forsythia and all the other spring flowering plants reaching their peak of beauty.

The first thing to do this month is to stand back for a moment, and simply enjoy the beauty that Mother Nature has given us...listen to the birds singing...walk around the garden, seeing the new buds on your plants emerging from there deep winter sleep...dream a little, and then put on the gardening gloves and head out to make your dream garden a reality!

You all know the old saying, "April showers bring May flowers", well here in the south of England we have certainly had a lot of rain so far this April :-)
Although we think of this as a rainy month, it can fool us. Keep transplanted flowers well watered during dry spells.

Lawns are greening under the strengthening sun; the azure blue forget-me-nots mingle with chalice-bloomed tulips. A myriad of hues from clove-scented wallflowers, colour beds and borders. Rock gardens glow with snowy candytuft, golden alyssum and purple aubretia. White, red and yellow saxifrages vie for attention.

A good tip before we begin....
"As you begin your quest for the perfect garden, don't overdo it! It's probably been a few months since you gave those muscles and bones of yours a good workout, so start out slowly and avoid that Monday morning backache."

Ah! Sweet primrose you are come,
To tell us of the spring:
The hedge-rows bloom, the woods are green,
And now the birdies sing.
~Thomas Hood~

...the winter has passed
flowers appear on the earth.
~Song of Songs 2:11,12~

April cold with dropping rain
Willows and lilacs brings again,
The whistle of returning birds
And trumpet-lowing of the herds.
~Ralph Waldo Emerson~

BULBS, SHRUBS and TREES

Complete major pruning or removal of trees and shrubs before birds begin to nest. It is getting too late in the season for the removal of the larger limbs.



Finish any other pruning of evergreens, including hard pruning of holly and yew hedges.



Privet hedges that weren't pruned in autumn can be done now. If very hard pruning is needed, do just one side and the other side next year, so as not to stress the plants. Then water general fertiliser into the soil. This is something I shall be doing to my own hedge this coming year.



Magnolias, if you're thinking of planting one, choose its position with great care, and make sure you allow the plant plenty of space as it will resent being moved later. Prepare the soil well first, by digging in plenty of leafmould or compost. Water regularly over the coming months while the plant roots get established.



Dead-head daffodils as soon as the flowers fade, so they don't waste their energy producing seeds. Help build up the bulbs for next year by watering in a liquid general fertiliser. And do NOT fold the leaves over and tie up, leave them naturally to take in more goodness, for the bulb to produce the best flowers next year.



Check young shrubs and trees that might have been loosened in any gales in your area. Firm the soil around them by pressing gently with your heel.



If can start trimming your box hedges and topiaries now, but wait another three to four weeks in colder areas. Always use sharp secateurs/shears; if you have got a good eye for following the shape you want...then trim hedges freehand (my prefered method), but, if not, use string to mark the desired height/shape.



Prune forsythias by cutting 1/3rd branches hard back AFTER flowering.



Prune summer-flowering shrubs...for example: buddleia, lavatera, hardy fuchsias and hydrangeas.



Move or divide spring bulbs (do this before leaves die down). Deadhead tulips and daffodils; leave stems and leaves loose, to die down.



Inspect your trees before the leaves emerge, to see if some pruning is required. But, remember that birches or maples should not be pruned in the spring. Leave these until late summer or autumn, as they bleed profusely, as this is the time when the sap begins to rise, and pruning cuts will not heal.



FLOWER, GRASSES AND ROSES

Now is the time to cut back the old foliage of evergreen ornamental grasses, and apply a light dressing of Growmore. Wait until May, when they are actively growing, to divide or transplant them to another area of the garden.



Thin out old clumps of bamboo, taking out a few of the older canes, to allow this year's shoots, which will be appearing soon, lots of space and plenty of light to develop to their full potential and show off their stems. Add a heavy mulch of rich compost.



Sow hardy annuals such as calendula, nasturtium, lavateras and cornflowers in shallow drills or patches. They are very reliable and germinate quickly, and a good choice to keep children interested in helping you grow your flowers.



Finish pruning roses, cut them back to some good strong shoots.



Bedding plants which have been raised early under glass, should now be hardened off and given fresh air by moving them outside on mild days. What I do is I move them to a sheltered area by a wall, and then as the weeks go by, I steadily move them into areas that will make them more hardy, ready to plant out into my garden.



For summer evening fragrance, I sow night-scented stocks (Matthiola longipetala I. M. bicornis) by scattering seeds where you want them to flower. The pale lilac and white blossoms are not very showy, but this variety is more than compensated by their sweet scent.



Top up the grit around your rock garden plants. Also sprinkle a layer of grit around grey-foliage plants in borders to protect new leaves from rain-splashed mud.



Some ornamental grasses look a little unsightly at the moment, before they start growing fresh new leaves. Not Stipa arundinacea, however, which retained its attractive, bronzy green fountains of foliage throughout the winter. This is a good time to plant this one and other grasses.



Continue sowing seeds of summer bedding, herbs and vegetables. Prick out the seedlings as soon as they are large enough to handle.



To be sure of getting lovely bushy plants, pinch out the growing tips of fuchsias, pelargoniums, argyranthemums and sweet peas.



Now is the best time to put in your stakes for your plants. It is so easy to forget to do this, I always forget, and then battle to support them when they get too big to handle. Support plants like peonies, achilleas and delphiniums. I do also try to rememebr to keep any twigs or small branches that have come down from my birch trees. But at your local garden centre, you can obtain different supports, like pea-sticks, galvanised or plastic-coated staking hoops and stakes, and off course string. These stakes should be pushed firmly into the soil so that rapidly growing plants can become supported, and will soon grow through and around them, and hide them.



Sow hybrid lily bulbs in containers, and hardy annuals directly outside.



Top dress roses and spray every 10-14 days for blackspot.



Deadhead winter flowering pansies and primroses. Unless you want some primroses to self seed, this is a good idea to allow some to do this, as then you can gather the seedlings and pot them on, ready to renew any plants in the autumn. I do this, new plants allways look so much better than old ones. But I also dig up old plants and split them, and replant them also.



Many popular perennials, such as chrysanthemums, hostas, shasta daisies, or liriope, can be dug up and divided this month.



VEGETABLE, FRUIT and HERBS

Plant runner beans in 3in pots of general purpose compost under glass, for planting out next month.



Leeks can be sown in a short rows or in pots, for planting out in rows later on.



Plant onion sets, 6in apart, and pushed into the soil until just the tip shows.



Sow courgettes, cucumbers and outdoor tomatoes in individual small pots under glass.



Prepare celery trenches and holes for runner beans and courgettes with plenty of manure or compost.



Continue planting out potatoes, but cover the soil with a protective blanket of heavyweight horticultural fleece.



Keep a check on weather forecasts and protect blossom of wall fruits if frosts are predicted.



Tomatoes, chilli peppers, aubergines, melons and indoor cucumbers need sowing now, one to two seeds per pot in a propagator or on a warm greenhouse bench.



Sow peas, mangetout, carrots, beetroot and autumn-maturing cauliflowers. Plant out maincrop potatoes, spacing them about 12in apart.



When danger of frost has passed, uncover your strawberry beds/plants and keep them well watered.



LAWN, POND and GREENHOUSE

Ventilate greenhouses and cold frames on sunny days to prevent temperatures rising too fast. On mild nights the vents can be left open.



Lower lawn mower blades to your preferred summer cutting height.



Put up movable shading in conservatories and greenhouses to protect plants on bright days.



Any lawn repairs using turfs or seeds should be done as soon as possible.



Transfer sweet peas and hardy annual seedlings to a cold frame to save space in the greenhouse.



Right now is a good time to give some attention to the lawn. The application of a spring type of lawn fertilizer should perk up the lawn and improve its over-all color and appearance. If moss is growing in the lawn, select a brand of spring lawn fertilizer that has the moss-killer included, so you can do both jobs in one easy application.



Spring is also a good time to thatch and over-seed the lawn. Thatch buildup can smother your lawn and provide an environment for diseases. Remove thatch with a brisk raking, or with a dethatching machine. Do this after you have applied moss killer.



LITTLE EXTRA'S

Watch out for mice taking beans and sweet peas in greenhouses.



Pot on houseplants into pots one or two sizes larger, with fresh compost.



Every now and again, check the ground for self-sown seedlings of garden plants that can be dug out carefully and moved to a better position if necessary, or potted up for taking to plant sales and giving to family, friends and neighbours.



This is the busiest time of year for nurseries and garden centres. Plants that will provide interest in the coming months will clearly be displayed, but don't forget to check out winter-flowering trees and shrubs, if you need any. Their prices are often reduced now that their flowering is over, and they are worth buying if in good condition.



Plug plants ordered by mail are starting to arrive and need urgent attention. Pot them up into fresh multi-purpose compost and keep under glass for another month or so. They will grow steadily during warm, bright days but need shelter from drying winds and cool nights.



Continue checking forecasts and provide vulnerable plants with overnight fleece protection when frost is likely.



Spray for aphids; protect young plants from slug damage. Uncover plants previously protected over winter with straw/bracken.



Mulch borders to keep down weeds



Although we think of this as a rainy month, it can fool us. Keep transplanted flowers well watered during dry spells.



To determine whether your garden soil is ready for seeds, grab a good handful of it. If you can form it into a ball, the soil is too wet. If it crumbles through your fingers and reminds you of chocolate cake, it's ready for planting.



Here are some random, helpful tips for planning, purchasing, and planting your bedding plants this month. Make a layout or plan of your flower garden/border before it is planted. This will not only give you a map of where to plant now, but also give you an idea where perennials or bulbs would fit in later to extend your seasonal colour. If you have a small area that you want to make appear larger, place the majority of warm and hot coloured flowers (yellows, oranges and reds) nearer the front. Concentrate cooler coloured plants (blues, silvers, etc.), which have a tendency to appear more distant, in the back of the bed.



When purchasing annual bedding plants, choose properly grown plants with good colour and lots of unopened buds.



Plants purchased from greenhouses may need to be hardened off before being planted in the garden. To do this, place the plants outside during the day and bring them back inside during the night. Gradually the plants can be left outside for longer periods of time until they have fully acclimatised and can be planted.



Be sure to take a little time to check the plants under the eaves of the house and under tall evergreens to see that they are getting sufficient moisture. In some cases, plants in these locations are bone-dry and in desperate need of watering. Container plantings should also be given watering attention. Speaking of watering, mulching flower and shrub beds will cut down on water consumption later this summer. Likewise, aerating the lawn will allow water to penetrate deeper into the lawn soil.



It's time to re-pot the geraniums/pelargoniums and fuchsias that were wintered-over. Re-pot them into fresh soil and begin a regular three or four week feeding of these plants, so they will be growing and ready to set outdoors when weather conditions are favorable.



Rotate your houseplants so that each side receives it's share of light, for even growth and a balanced shape.



As the sun's rays strengthen, some plants, such as African Violets, may need to be moved away from a south-facing window to avoid leaf scorch.



Spring cleaning your plants will keep them beautiful and help to avoid diseases. Remove any spent flowers, dead leaves or branches, or any yellowing leaves. Rinse the dust from the leaves with the kitchen sprayer. Clean leaves allow the plant to breathe!
Pinching back the tips of foliage plants will stimulate new growth and make your plant fuller and bushier.
If you keep a Coleus as a house plant you can still start cuttings for transplant to the garden. Use a sharp clean knife to cut the stem just below a leaf node. Remove the lowest leaves, dip the cut end into a rooting hormone and insert it into some fresh, sterile potting soil. These cuttings will be ready to use as a bright garden accent by early June.









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but do write to me via e-mail if you wish,
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Enjoy your gardening this month both indoors and outdoors.




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